Seeking Out the Lost Village of East Washington

Hillsborough Upper Village and East Washington, N.H. 12.7 miles. Elevation gain: 860 feet. Mellow to moderate. Find your way along lonely back roads to the Brigadoon-ish lost village of East Washington. Nice fall foliage as well. Ah, we're sliding into fall biking season, the best biking of the year. No bugs, not too hot, not too cold, hints of color in the red maples along the edges of marshes. You're a bit tired of your same old, same old rides and you're looking to disappear into the hinterlands. Maybe you've been through Washington, N.H. on your way to Pillsbury State Park, but I suspect 90% of readers have never been to East Washington, a little hamlet in the far eastern corner of the town. It's a serene destination for an early fall outing. Heading toward Concord, just before Route 9 becomes a superhighway in Hillsborough, take a left on Route 31. Pass the Franklin Pierce Homestead State Historic Site and cruise up about 1.5 miles to the smattering of houses that make up Upper Hillsborough Village. Pass Gleason Falls Road and then take a right on Cooledge Road. Go 0.15 miles (otherwise known as a smidge) to an obvious pull-off on the right-hand side by a meadow. Park there, saddle up and head back the way you came, to turn down Gleason Falls Road. The fun begins right away. Zip down to cross over Shedd Brook on this gravel road that's going to get a little rough for a half mile or so in the middle, but it's worth it. No power lines, deep woods, one steep little 10% grade climb and you'll eventually come to Beard Road at 1.8 miles. Turn right to take a quick detour (just a smidge) to Gleason Falls. Just past the beautifully crafted stone arch bridge there's a little trail down to a great view of the falls through this little gorge. Worth the effort. Turn around and head back up to corner with Gleason Falls Road and continue straight ahead on Beard Road More quietude. At 3.5 miles you'll merge onto the paved East Washington Road and the landscape opens up. You're following Beard Brook north through marshes, old meadows and farms. It's mostly flat, a little roll-y and couldn't be more lovely. Nicely maintained country homes, some ramshackle barns and don't miss The Muffin Lady's shack at 908 E. Washington Road, "everything is baked fresh with love — no shortcuts, no frozen mixes, just simple, honest ingredients that taste like home." Pumpkin maple with streusel, blueberry, sage scones. A wonderful surprise out here in the boonies. And if you do this in October, there's a great spooky barn along here as well. Then roll into the hamlet of East Washington, a dozen or so mostly white houses scattered along the meadow-y shores of Beard Brook Pond. Sit on the bench by the pond and appreciate the view up to Lovewell Mountain. We watched a family of otters cavort along the shores of a little pond just up the road toward the East Washington Fire Station a few years ago. Completely entrancing. Turn around and head back the way you came. Past the Live Free or Die barn and The Muffin Lady. At 8.7 miles, take a right on Cooledge Road It's a little hillier, more meadows and marshes. It could be a four mile straight shot back to your car. But consider trying out this little hack. At 10.2 miles, see Danforth Corners Road, an inviting little road slipping off to the right. Take it. Follow it for a half mile and then take a left on Stowe Mountain Road for a mile of meadows. Then enter the woods and take a left on Camp Road along the shore of Shedd Brook Pond back to Cooledge Road at 11.7 miles. I didn't have the time to try out this little detour when I was there a couple weeks ago, but the roads look good on the satellite photo. I think this will be the icing on the cake of this lost country lanes ride. Give me a report from the field if you take this foray. For a digital map of this ride, see: ridewithgps.com/routes/56903157 Apres Velo It's a little out of your way, but if you're hankering for lunch or an early dinner, head into downtown Hillsborough to find Tooky Mills Pub. It's become a semi-regular stop for me on my way up to Concord or back from Mt. Sunapee. The Contoocook Hosiery Mills dominated downtown Hillsborough in the 19th and early 20th centuries and the name "Tooky" is a nickname for the Contoocook River which flows right behind the pub. The pub is decorated with mills artifacts — wooden spools, long johns dating back to the Civil War, socks and sock stretchers. Even the hostess stand was once the mills overseer's desk. This is a for real neighborhood pub, with regulars hunkered up to the bar and the Red Sox on the tube, but the food is surprising. The pub is chef owned and they pride themselves on "creating homemade fare, pan-built sauces and preparing original dishes to order." Pan-built sauces! Sure you can get burgers and chicken tenders, but you can also get Mussels Meuniere, Spanakopita and Jambalaya. And I like having the classic Turkey Club cut into four triangles held together with toothpicks with a heap of fries in the middle. Cozy seating, great deck, an array of craft beers. What's not to like? Turn by Turn Directions: Upper Hillsborough Village and East Washington 0 miles &emsp;&emsp;Park just north of the intersection of Route 31 and Cooledge Road at a pullout on &emsp;&emsp;the side of Cooledge Road in Upper Hillsborough Village. Turn around and head &emsp;&emsp;back south onto Route 31. 0.2 miles&emsp;&emsp;Left on Gleason Falls Road 1.8 miles&emsp;&emsp;Right to go down to view Gleason Falls. 2.0 miles Turn around, head back up to the corner of Gleason Falls Road and continue &emsp;&emsp; &emsp;&emsp;straight on Beard Road 3.4 miles&emsp;&emsp;Merge onto East Washington Road 7.0 miles Arrive East Washington village. Take a break on a bench by the pond. &emsp;&emsp;Turn around and head back south on East Washington Road Look for the &emsp;&emsp; &emsp;&emsp;Muffin Lady if you missed her heading north. 8.7 miles&emsp;&emsp;Right on Cooledge Road 10.2 miles Right on Danforth Corners Road 10.6 miles Left on Stowe Mountain Road 11.3 miles Left on Camp Road 11.7 miles Right on Cooledge Road 12.7 miles Arrive back at your car.