Exploring Backroads in the West River Valley

West River Valley: Newfane and Brookline. 11.7 miles. Elevation gain 840 feet. Moderate. Beautiful river views, a lost un-village, an exhilarating downhill, a very much found and classic village. When the black flies in the Monadnock Region become pesky, head for Windham County in Vermont for unbuggy biking. Yes, I know it's unfair that southeastern Vermont is way less buggy than southwestern New Hampshire, but c'est la vie. Newfane is the county seat for Windham County and this ride starts at the imposing classical Windham County Courthouse. Ample parking on the south side of the green in front of the courthouse. Head south on Rt. 30 passing the Fat Crow restaurant. After crossing Smith Brook, turn right onto Bruce Brook Road. Then after crossing another brook, turn left on Browns Road. There's a stately brick Cape on this corner with an appealing swimming pond across the street on your left. Descend along this road, appreciating that you're not on Rt. 30 until, alas, you take a right on Rt. 30 — but only for a moment. In a few tenths of a mile turn left on Brook Street and then left on River Road. Now the pretty backroads flavor that called you to this ride unfolds. This road rises and falls with views of the West River all along the way. About midway, where the bank drops steeply down to the river, look for a rope swing. Soon you'll pass a sprawling horse farm with miles of fenced pens that look like the board for a labyrinthine computer game. After two miles on River Road, take a right on Grassy Brook Road to cross the West River on an iron bridge. Note the path down to an easy-to-get-to swimming hole on the east bank of the river. Just past the bridge you'll pass Hill Road where you'll come down in about 30 minutes. Grassy Brook Road follows the sweep of a big bend in the river, past more farms until you cross the namesake brook for this road. Take a left here. You're heading up the Grassy Brook valley, a pleasing hidden valley that leads up into the lost un-village of Brookline, home to about 500 people. There's a town hall up there somewhere and a church, I think. The kids go to school back in Newfane so only an old schoolhouse or two. There aren't a lot of Vermont towns with so little village center. (Actually, find your way to Baltimore, Vermont for a similarly lost un-village.). Despite there not being village, this is a pleasant ride in the company of the gallivanting brook. At Hill Road take a left. Until now, this ride has been reasonably mellow; you've got two climbs in the second part of the ride. This one is reasonably comfy, only a couple of hundred feet of elevation. And you are rewarded with one heck of a downhill. The pavement is smooth, the road curves, dips and dives, the farm views are grand and about midway down this hill you'll start to think, "Wait! We couldn't have climbed this far." So even though you're returning to a spot you've already been, it feels like you descend more than you climbed. This ride fits into my category of M.C. Escher rides. You've seen those Escher graphics that somehow trick the eye so that water is flowing downhill in a circle. You know it's physically impossible and you can't figure out how he manages to create the illusion. Similarly, there are bike loops that seem like there's way more downhill than uphill. (Which is impossible if you're biking a loop—they have to be the same.)This illusion is created because you gently climbed 100 feet along Grassy Brook Road without really thinking you were climbing before you got to Hill Road. This illustrates the mechanical advantage of gently inclined planes. Back at Grassy Brook Road, take a right, cross back over the West River bridge and instead of taking a left on River Rd. head uphill on Radway Hill Rd., a steep slog up to Rt. 30. At this point, repeat the mantra that, "Into each bike ride, some rain must fall." Not necessarily literal rain, but rather understand that though I aspire to curating perfect rides, sometimes you just have to accept a few flaws. The next mile on Rt. 30 manages the unpleasant trifecta of being moderately steep, having a minimal shoulder, and there's unusually fast traffic. Grin and bear it. As you start to descend back into Newfane, take a right on Cross Street, away from mean Rt. 30, then take a left on West Street to enter the village down a lane of crisp white houses with inviting porches, well-tended perennial gardens and neighbors chatting on the sidewalks. You'll want this idyll to last, but too soon you're back at the Courthouse. Swimming Opportunities You passed a great swim option twice back there on the east bank of the West River on Grassy Brook Rd. Easy access, clear path, avoid the poison ivy, sandy and gravelly beach. Shallow and deep spots and usually not much current. If you're heading south, there's also a classic swimming hole at the junction of the West and Rock Rivers where the road to Williamsville cuts off Rt. 30. If it's a warm summer day there will be a hundred cars parked here. One caveat, don't leave valuables in your car. A few years ago a couple of cars even had their catalytic converters cut off while their drivers were swimming here! Is there no shame? But it is a nice swim spot. Apres Velo Opportunities You passed Fat Crow in the beginning of the ride. The food here is remarkably wonderful, but if you're used to mid-day biking and lunch dining, it won't be open. Try to bike later in the day and arrive here when it is open — 4-9 p.m. Wednesdays thru Saturdays. Wood-fired pizzas, BBQ, tacos, but everything with a unique twist. Worth planning around when it's open. For a digital map of this ride: ridewithgps.com/routes/54885807 At a Glance: Newfane and Brookline, VT 0 miles &emsp;&emsp;Park on the south side of the green in front of the Windham &emsp;&emsp; &emsp;&emsp;County Courthouse in the center of Newfane. Head south on Rt. 30 0.3 miles&emsp;&emsp;Turn right on Bruce Brook Rd. 0.6 miles&emsp;&emsp;Turn left on Brown Rd. 1.5 miles&emsp;&emsp;Right on Rt. 30 1.7 miles&emsp;&emsp;Left on Brook Rd. 1.8 miles&emsp;&emsp;Left on River Rd. 4.4 miles Right on Grassy Brook Rd. and cross the West River. Pass Hill Rd. &emsp;&emsp;on your left. 5.4 miles&emsp;&emsp;Turn left to continue on Grassy Brook Rd. 7.4 miles&emsp;&emsp;Left on Hill Rd. for a moderate climb. 8.1 miles&emsp;&emsp;Bear left to stay on Hill Rd. to climb a bit more, followed by a great &emsp;&emsp; &emsp;&emsp;swoop. 9.8 miles&emsp;&emsp;Right on Grassy Brook Rd. Cross back over West River. 10.1 miles Continue straight, uphill on Radway Hill Rd. 10.5 miles Left on Rt. 30. Grin and bear it. 11.4 miles Right on Cross St. then left on West St. 11.7 miles Arrive back at Courthouse Newfane and Brookline Photos Recommended Photos: Newfane Courthouse caption: Start your ride at the classic Windham Country Court House in the center of Newfane. Newfane, West River Valley caption: View of West River from River Rd. Newfane, West River bridge caption: Crossing the West River en route to Brookline. Newfane, West River swimming hole caption: Just above the swimming hole on the West River. Newfane, Trucks #1 caption: It's not all pretty landscapes on Vermont backroads. Newfane, coming into village caption: Coming into Newfane at the end of the ride Newfane, Civil War memorial caption: Find this somewhat morbid Civil War memorial plaque on the Newfane green Newfane, Jen, West River caption: Wading into the West River swimming hole after the ride