FOOD PROFILE The New England House • Brattleboro, Vermont Swedish Meatballs, Lobster Rolls, and Everything in Between

A restaurant called "The New England House" might conjure images of creamy New England clam chowder, chilled shrimp cocktail and a captain's combo of items like fried fresh haddock, shrimp, and clam fritters. These are, in fact, among the menu options of quality made-from-scratch options at this Brattleboro, Vermont restaurant. But owners Kurt and Selma Johnson have never been content to stop there. Their menu roams freely — Swedish meatballs, shepherd's pie, pan-seared Faroe Island salmon, maple BBQ pulled pork and hand-crafted burgers. The restaurant closes for only one holiday: Christmas. Special offerings are coordinated with other holidays, such as Easter and Mother's Day. On Thanksgiving, they sell out before the menu is even announced. House-made pasta and bread make every menu item stand out, especially the brioche buns that elevate their lobster rolls, which are among the top five in Vermont. Weekend mornings bring one of the most sumptuous items on the menu: strawberry-stuffed brioche French toast with a smooth custard filling. Any day of the week, you might find yourself torn between a fiery skillet dish, Swedish pancakes with lingonberry jam, or one of several eggs Benedict and omelet variations. Then there's the ice cream — their son, Niklas, creates homemade flavors such as Key lime pie, lingonberry with ginger cookie, and cannoli. The outdoor ice cream shack, called Nik's, is the Johnsons' most recent addition to the property. "We have a fun synergy with our son, who makes his own new flavors," Johnson says. Small wonder that The New England House draws a devoted crowd of regulars, plus newcomers who spot it from the road and can't help but pull over. "Some regulars come every single day, and the Friday night crew that comes have their own places at the bar," Selma says. The owners inherited the regulars who had already frequented the restaurant before they bought it. They gained new ones, too. Year after year, people from out of state stop in on their way to and from ski areas, she adds. "The regulars said, 'Don't change anything' in the beginning," she says. Over time, her husband began launching new items based on his extensive culinary experience in this country and abroad. And the regulars soon began ordering, and reordering, the newer entrees. Step inside The New England House, and the atmosphere does its own storytelling. Around the bar, a fire crackles, and the walls are lined with old tools and memorabilia — including a weathered sign from The Jolly Butcher, the steak and seafood spot that held court here for two decades before the Johnsons arrived. The Johnsons' path to Brattleboro is yet another story. They met in Istanbul, where Kurt had been transferred by the Swiss hotel company he worked for. From there, life took them to Russia, then back to Anatolia, then on to Sweden and Egypt — a culinary adventure influencing certain specialty items on their menu. Kurt, a Chicago native, and Selma eventually made their way back to the United States 13 years ago, drawn by family. Eventually, an East Coast search for an inn brought them to Vermont. In 2013, they discovered the property in Brattleboro was for sale, were drawn to the barn's rustic charm, and bought it. After years of a busy international life, the couple says they appreciate Vermont's slower pace. The restaurant has changed hands over the years, but its roots run deep — about 45 years' worth, Johnson notes. And the building itself has a story: it's a post-and-beam structure, once a barn, that was airlifted to its current location by helicopter. Not many restaurants can say that. "This restaurant's been part of the community for many years. People have a lot of memories from here," Johnson says. They are happy that the place has helped them and community members get to know each other. And in times when many restaurants are having trouble staying afloat, they pat themselves on the back for still standing. BOX The New England House254 Marlboro RoadBrattleboro, Vermont 802-254-6886 thenewenglandhousevt.com The New England House is open Wednesday through Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. for breakfast and lunch, with dinner served Friday and Saturday from 5 to 8 p.m.