West-African Grain Breaks Ground in American Brewing Industry

Fonio, an ancient West African grain with a rich cultural history, is finding new life in an unexpected place: craft beer. With its unique flavor profile and sustainable farming benefits, fonio is capturing the attention of brewers across the United States. And although it hasn't yet appeared in the Monadnock Region's beer scene, the growing popularity of fonio-based brews suggests it might not be long before we see it on local taps. In a Brooklyn Brewery blog post by Tim Rozmus, it was explained that fonio made its first major appearance in American brewing in 2019, thanks to Garrett Oliver, brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery. Inspired by a TED Talk by Senegalese chef and fonio advocate Pierre Thiam, Oliver began experimenting with the grain. That same year, Brooklyn Brewery debuted "Teranga," a beer brewed with 50 percent fonio, at the Great American Beer Festival. This marked the first public unveiling of fonio in a commercial beer and ignited curiosity among brewers and drinkers alike. Fast forward to 2025, and fonio beers are gaining traction nationwide. In January, Kiltos Brewing in Utah created the first 100 percent fonio beer in the United States. The response was immediate and enthusiastic — the batch sold out quickly, showing strong consumer interest in this unique and sustainable brew. On the West Coast, Russian River Brewing Company has also joined the movement, adding fonio to their Belgian golden ale, further cementing the grain's place in craft brewing innovation. So, what exactly is fonio, and why is it turning heads in the brewing world? Fonio is a naturally gluten-free, nutrient-rich grain that's been cultivated in West Africa for over 5,000 years. One of its biggest advantages is its environmental resilience. It thrives in arid climates, requires no irrigation, pesticides or fertilizers, and it matures in just six to eight weeks. This makes it an excellent choice for brewers seeking to reduce their environmental impact. Additionally, sourcing fonio creates economic opportunities for small-scale farmers in West Africa, giving the grain a social sustainability boost as well. From a flavor standpoint, fonio offers something distinct. Brewers describe it as having a sweet, biscuity profile with subtle notes of tropical fruit. It contributes a smooth texture and a layer of complexity to the beer. Plus, its gluten-free nature opens doors for breweries to craft beer options for gluten-sensitive consumers without compromising on taste. In the Northeast, Brooklyn Brewery remains a leader in fonio innovation. But other regional breweries are beginning to explore the grain's potential as well. Vulgar Brewing Company in Franklin offers a fonio-based lager called "Hooked on Fonio" (4.6%). This American light lager is low in bitterness, light-bodied, slightly nutty and finishes dry — an ideal option for summer sipping. Further north in Burlington, Vt., Foam Brewers has created "Past and Pending" (4%), a lager brewed with both pilsner malt and fonio. The beer is described as crisp and light with a subtle earthiness and gentle fruit notes, showcasing fonio's ability to complement and enhance delicate flavor profiles. As craft brewers continue to seek new ways to innovate and promote sustainability, fonio stands out as a compelling ingredient; and with regional brewers increasingly focused on creative ingredients and responsible brewing practices, it might be the next exciting grain to take root in New Hampshire.