Weaving Together a Local Fiber System

Much as the local food movement has gained traction over recent years, the importance of supporting local fabric production is being brought to light thanks to the development of a nationwide fibershed system. A fibershed is commonly defined as a geographical landscape that provides infrastructure and resources for the creation of local fabric — a place-based textile system. Fibershed, with a capitalized "F," is a national nonprofit that seeks to develop regional fiber systems for the local ecosystem and community health. According to the Fibershed mission, "Our work expands opportunities to implement climate benefitting agriculture, rebuild regional manufacturing and connect end-users to the source of our fiber through education. We transform the economic systems behind the production of material culture to mitigate climate change, improve health and contribute to racial and economic equity." In New Hampshire, Vermont and Maine, the Northern New England Fibershed (NNEF) is working to reinvigorate natural fiber systems by supporting individuals and businesses along the fiber supply chain and by promoting regenerative farming practices rooted in traditional Indigenous knowledge. Lea Rossignol co-founded NNEF in 2021 with Sara Goodman and Molly Bolick. Fiscally sponsored by Sanborn Mills Farm in Loudon, Rossingnol's title is Outreach and Development Coordinator & Director of Northern New England Fibershed, one of the very few paid Fibershed positions. Their situation is unique among the more than 70 international affiliates, Rossignol explained, as most are run by volunteers. The movement was started in California 15 to 20 years ago by Rebecca Burgess, who also authored a book on the subject titled "Fibershed" with Courtney White. "We're rebuilding the regional textile system by supporting fiber farmers, mills and craftspeople," Rossignol said. With an eye on becoming its own nonprofit, NNEF received grant funds last year for technical assistance to work on a 10-year vision document for its organizational structuring and is working toward establishing itself as a nonprofit with a board of directors, bylines and other necessary steps. This year, another microgrant is assisting with the implementation of a feasibility study for a local bast fiber processing facility. Bast fibers are plant-based (such as cotton, flax, and hemp), although a local facility would focus on flax and hemp due to the regional grow zone. "The work that [the Bast Fiber Committee] is putting in will develop information that is very interesting," Rossignol said. "It would be remarkable to have a bast processing facility here. It would move the needle substantially for our region." Another project completed recently was the fiber farmer survey, which was sent out through email to fiber farms to evaluate the needs, strengths and weaknesses of the region. The results can be found on the NNEF website. Currently, there's also a design challenge being held by the Fibershed that is open to all textile designers and artisans in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont. The goal of the challenge and its parameters is to better understand the regional textile infrastructure, both its strengths and challenges. The challenge wraps up in August and more details can be found online. In addition, producers who wish to be included in the NNEF producer directory are strongly encouraged to sign up online at any time, Rossignol said. "There are so many similarities between the local food and local fiber systems," Rossignol said. "Hopefully we're moving in the same direction. ... If you're interested in knowing where your food is grown, then you should also care about your clothes." Her own journey in the Fibershed movement began with watching a Netflix documentary called "The True Cost" about eight or so years ago, she said. It was an eye-opening look into the fashion industry and its global impact. As someone who had always loved fashion and shopping, she was forever changed by the film. She fell even further down the rabbit hole when she started researching local clothing brands made with natural fibers and came across Rebecca Burgess and her book. "I fell in love with it," Rossignol recalled. During COVID, she went back to school to earn her MBA in sustainability and then a friend, Sara Goodman, reached out with the opportunity of establishing a local fibershed. Goodman is also employed by Sanborn Mills Farm as a dye and fiber consultant. It all happened quickly, and before she knew it, Rossignol was the Sanborn Mills Farm Outreach and Development Coordinator, as well as Director of Northern New England Fibershed. "The fact that I get to do fibershed work is mind-blowing to me," Rossignol said of her path. "There are so many good things happening at the community level and it's really fun and exciting to see." Northern New England Fibershed will exhibit at the NH Farm, Forest & Garden Expo on May 3 and 4 in Deerfield, as well as the NH Sheep & Wool Festival on May 11 and 12 in Deerfield. For more information, visit nnefibershed.com or contact info.nnefibershed@gmail.com. Visit the national website to learn more at fibershed.org. Follow Northern New England Fibershed on Facebook for events and updates.