FOOD PROFILE Kipling's Tavern: An Old-Fashioned Pub with a Twist

Restaurant owners Bryan Gelke and Maggie Bernhard haven't reinvented history at Kipling's Tavern — they're creating their own. &emsp;The co-owners have breathed new life into a local landmark since the 1920s, when it first began to house primarily watering holes. &emsp;Before Kipling's Tavern, for about 30 years, the building was named Kipling's Restaurant and Bar and known as Kip's. Earlier, the business was called Mike's Restaurant — a photo on the back wall depicts the restaurant under that name. &emsp;"It was a spot for factory workers who worked third shift; it was open from 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.," says Gelke. "It was a beer and a shot kind of place that served hot dogs and burgers. There's stories of a lot of fights that happened." &emsp;For nearly a decade, Gelke, a native New Yorker, and Bernhard, of Marlboro, Vermont, worked together at Peter Havens Restaurant, a few addresses away from Kipling's on Elliot Street. They're life partners and now business partners. &emsp;They used to visit Kipling's regularly after work and would joke with the prior owners, Kipling and Jill Record, that they would be interested in taking over when they were ready to sell, Gelke says. After COVID-19 came around, the business never reopened. &emsp;"They didn't want to lease or sell the business; it was all or nothing," notes Gelke, so the couple seized the opportunity and purchased it. &emsp;Cosmetic improvements were minimal because the pair wanted to keep the unique, cozy feel of what makes the space Kipling's. Renovations by the former owners in 2006 include wood on the walls and a new bar. A fresh coat of paint went on the exterior. A small stage was removed to make room for some high-top tables, and new artwork was hung. &emsp;They opened the doors of Kipling's Tavern in September of that year (2022) and were very busy right out of the gate. Three months later, on Dec. 3, the building next door that housed McNeil's Brewery caught fire. The tavern sustained significant water damage that caused the owners to shut down for the month and again later in April of 2023 to complete some structural work needed because of that damage. &emsp;"We made the improvements and sustained being busy," says Gelke. "We still had a line out the door." &emsp;The couple approached the tavern menu in the same way as the space itself. &emsp;"We didn't want to be drastically different," says Gelke. "People loved the place; we didn't want to mess with that." &emsp;On opening night, they offered three varieties of burgers, three sandwiches and three salads, not wanting to bite off more than they could chew (so to speak). &emsp;The menu still offers a careful selection of what Gelke describes as classic items with "little spins" on them. Take the Ludo burger, for instance, with house-made au Poivre sauce, black pepper cheese, arugula, onion, and mushroom jam on a brioche bun. &emsp;"It's a spin on steak au poivre," says Gelke. &emsp;Where the cooking staff really shines, he adds, is in the tavern's nightly specials: among recent selections are seared scallops with pearl couscous and tomato-truffle butter and barbecue braised pork with house-made mac and cheese. &emsp;Mixing craft cocktails is what's in Gelke's wheelhouse, having tended bar at and managed high-end restaurants in San Francisco, Lake Tahoe and Providence, Rhode Island, before becoming a restaurant owner. The cocktail menu features pre-Prohibition era classic whiskey, gin, and bourbon-based cocktails, all with a modern twist. It is rounded out with New England microbrews (including sour beers from Brattleboro's Hermit Thrush Brewery) and globally sourced wines. &emsp;You'll often see Gelke behind the bar at Kipling's: not only is he a talented mixologist, but his impeccable taste in music is also a highlight of the tavern experience according to Google reviewers (the restaurant's rating is 4.7 out of five stars). Admittedly not tech-savvy, he credits Bernhard for helping him create his indie rock-heavy playlists that are key to the pub's boisterous atmosphere on a busy night. &emsp;One recent reviewer, Derek Paul, describes the atmosphere, music and vibe as "cohesive and overwhelmingly enjoyable," and Naomi Shafer describes the small and intimate space as welcoming enough she had planned on coming for drinks but was having so much fun she stayed to split a Reuben. &emsp;Gelke and Bernhard source from local purveyors as much as possible: bread and pretzels come from The Bread Shed in Keene; microgreens from Grateful Greens in Brattleboro; eggs and summer produce from Bernhard's mother and herbs often come from friends' gardens. &emsp;Also locally sourced is the tavern's staff, many of whom have been with Gelke and Bernhard since opening day — that means a lot considering the low retention rate in the workforce post-pandemic. &emsp;"I'm not a chef by trade, but I obsess about food," says Gelke, who often presents ideas to the kitchen staff. "They just make it happen. It's very rewarding." &emsp;Bernhard's father has lent his skills as a retired carpenter, and her mother and sister have been helping with staffing needs. &emsp;While they have no plans to expand, taking on another project is not off the table. &emsp;"Creativity is the driving force in hospitality," says Gelke, "and Brattleboro needs a breakfast spot." BOXKipling's Tavern78 Elliot StreetBrattleboro, Vermont802-490-2904facebook.com/Kiplings.Pub